The history of Ukraine of the new time in the images of the fashion industry is shown in the Mystetsky Arsenal

Until August 6, the exhibition “IN PROGRESS. Dress code of Ukraine since independence. ” Behind an ambitious and slightly pretentious title is a rather curious exposition that is worth attention not only to the notorious fascist, but also admirers of folklore traditions, lovers of nostalgia and even connoisseurs of modern art.Art critic and fashion historian Zoya Zvinyatskovskaya is in charge of the idea of ​​the exhibition and its implementation. Her efforts collected two hundred exhibits by forty Ukrainian designers, which were then compiled into an eloquent illustration of the origin and development of public self-consciousness, national identification and evolution of the Ukrainian fashion industry from the moment the republic left the USSR to the present.

From the world by thread

Going from one hall to another and looking around the ensembles grouped by periods, you consistently immerse yourself in the atmosphere of historical eras refracted through the prism of designer arbitrariness. The first conditional stage is dated 1991 - 1997: “New freedoms. New elite.

A grotesque and naive post-perestroika fashion appears before our eyes, when, in the absence of established traditions of haute couture and often - the lack of a minimum material base in the form of fabrics - all means and the principle of "dazzled from what was."
Vladimir Umanenko. From the “Ethnohouse” collection (1986 - 98)

Photo: It seems that fashion designers were forced to collect materials literally on grandmother's chests: dresses tailored from pieces of old tapestries, heavy velvet curtains, tulle curtains, tablecloths and, it seems, linen sheets — an epoch-making artifact of the epoch. naive, but extremely nostalgic for the generation that caught the height of the insane 90s, the latex-feather chic of the first raves, as well as experiments in the fashion industry of Ilya Chichkan - even before he found himself in the field of visual arts.

The atmosphere of each milestone exposure «IN PROGRESS. The dress code of Ukraine since independence is underlined by the characteristic symbols of the time. The walls of the hall dedicated to a specific segment of light industry, meeting the demand for crimson jackets and dresses covered with rhinestones at the cost of an apartment, are painted with thematic anecdotes.

Glamor Tugur

The following time period is limited to 1997 - 2010: “Dialogue with a national tradition. Ukrainian glamor. Fabrics on mannequins become more expensive, images - more thoughtful, folklore motifs are included in the fashionable agenda.
Several exhibits were provided by fashion historian Alexander Vasilyev. Finally, there is an opportunity to see firsthand what a TV screen frequenter, invited everywhere as a fashion expert, is still doing in real life.Alexander Vasiliev. Famale Jacket, 2003 and Vintage dress, 2008
Photo: Plasma behind the backs of mannequins in the costumes of the iconic figures of the Ukrainian showbiz is broadcasting music videos that perpetuate the corresponding design refinements. As well as a piece of gossip from the TV presenter in the purple ensemble from Andre Tan, who was awarded an honorary place at the exhibition. “Of course, someone wants to see Kati Osadchay’s dress, in which she spoke to Paris Hilton, because this is pop culture,” curator Zoya Zvinyatskovskaya commented on the choice of the exhibit.Photo: At the intersection of fashion and avant-garde painting, the Malevich collection of Victor Anisimov was created in 2003. Inspired by the paintings of the Ukrainian apologist for Suprematism, the designer transferred the images from the artist's canvases to knitted things that you immediately want to remove from the dummies and carry on yourself. It is a pity that this series is already the heritage of history, and the surviving specimens for the exhibition “IN PROGRESS. The dress code of Ukraine since independence had to be collected literally bit by bit. However, as much of what is represented on it.

2010 is our time: "New urbanism. Anti-glamor"

One of the most remarkable installations is devoted to the art project “Fatal strategies” by Olga Gromova. At the end of the designer’s show at the Ukrainian Fashion Week in 2011, the models returned to the podium and personally threw outfits, which they had just demonstrated, into the firebox of a huge fireplace.The ashes, left over from the collection gone into oblivion, are enclosed in a small flask in the middle of the hall. On one of its walls, the footage of the defile itself is broadcast, and on the opposite, the act of burning Olga Gromova’s man-made models of the complexly-built dresses: a fascinating and hypnotic spectacle.Photo: The high-profile guests and guests didn’t notice: Marina Marina is a type of landscape with a sea view. Also, marines are concrete paintings or sea engravings. The word "marina" (ital. Marina) is derived from the Latin marinus - marine. Read further Abramovich and the first lady of Ukraine Marina Marina is a type of landscape, which depicts the sea. Also, marines are concrete paintings or sea engravings. The word "marina" (ital. Marina) is derived from the Latin marinus - marine. Read more Poroshenko inspect the model from the collection of Sergei Ermakov. Art: read us in the Telegram and see Instagram on the main illustration:
The author: Natalia Azarenko